HUGE Swell...

in the morning I started getting bulletins on my phone about the HUGE surf that was

starting to show.  The news had started talking about this swell over the weekend, but

then they announced that it would be big, but wasn't right for "the Eddie" because of

the direction.

after school I went on the bypass road to see how bad the traffic was...

bad!

this is looking towards Waialua with the cars all the way to Weed Circle.

I decided to wait and went back right before sunset.  Th air was full of spray from the surf.

so many cars were loaded with boards

all of the beaches were closed with caution tape 

Waimea Beach Park was closed to the public

probably a few hundred people lined the cliff to watch

 at Rock Piles, the water/surge had actually come up and over Kam Hiway

***as I was sitting in traffic I actually saw some tourist with rental boards

go under the caution tape.  Crazy for sure!

So It Starts...

winter 2014 contest season on the North Shore

Right now up at Sunset is the HIC Pro

and next week will start the Triple Crown with the first contest

at Ali'i Beach in Haleiwa.

Traffic is already starting to get bad and there are a lot more people

it seems in Haleiwa.

Let the games begin...

Dawn Patrol (sort of)...

on Thursday mornings Lauren has surf club at the middle school.

She asked me if I would pick her up at 6:05am.  She told me as we were

driving to T St, that it was nice that it wasn't dark anymore when she went.

Since the time changes this weekend, it was pretty light out.

I was surprised at how many kids were there.  I'm pretty sure they were all middle schoolers.

When I used to do this with Geoff, I would read a book or look at magazines.

Now I was reading on my iPad.  Things stay the same, but are different.

I used to love the time I spent in the car driving Geoff back and forth to the beach.  

I feel the same thing with Lauren.

North Shore Petroglyphs...

the recent HUGE (50+ feet) surf that we've had here on the North Shore

has uncovered something that's truly amazing.

Petroglyphs!

these are usually covered by 10 feet of sand and 

are around 1500 years old!

I'm amazed that these are so well preserved.

My friend, Brisha-Poata Te'o shared these great photos with me.

She braved the changing tides to get them.  I must say they're well worth it.

Such a special treat and to think in a few weeks/months they'll probably

be covered again for who knows how many years.

Mahalo again Brisha for sharing.

I'd love to know the story that they're telling.

Super Swell...

today brought some crazy stuff on the North Shore

50+ foot waves, rain, crazy wind, traffic, the air smells like salt and tons of water everywhere …

so many people were taking photos all over the North Shore.

I borrowed some to try and show a little bit of what was going on today.

It doesn't really give the feeling of what it's like.  I don't think even film would.

water coming onto Kam Hiway at Haleiwa Beach Park

a little spot called "Chocolates" by Surf & Sea thats normally flat was the only place surf able today

this mornings paper

on shore winds and tons of water

Rocky Point houses fighting a battle 

water washing over the wall at Haleiwa

crazy winds

my friends Lala and Jamie selling shave ice at Waimea

3 tables closed out

parking lot at Haleiwa Beach Park covered in sand and water

not sure if this is 50 feet but it's HUGE

so far the houses are still standing thank goodness

it really was a crazy, awe-inspiring day.

T-Street Girlie...

Lauren called me yesterday and asked if I could take her surfing at T-Street.

It was a day off for the public school kids, so it was pretty crowded and the surf

was very small…but she didn't care.

I stayed up at the top and sat in the warm sun (first time I actually had my sweatshirt off)

and took photos of her with my long lens.

 I could pick her out because the sun reflected off her hair

and she was the only girl out there.

3 hours later

cold but still smiling

this brought back a lot of memories of sitting at

T-Street waiting for Lauren's Uncle Geoff.

Instead of reading magazines in the car, 

I read a book on my iPad …same but different.

Best way to spend some time in San Clemente,

Surf Check...

after breakfast yesterday, Grey wanted to go and see the surf at T-Street.

He and his dad normally go here, so he wanted to check it out.

I just happened to snap this picture of Poppa and Grey

while Emme and I sat in the car.  

That boy is certainly a Moysa

Surfing, A Sad Fact...

it can be very dangerous.

Yesterday we had the first really BIG swell come through.  

They didn't run the contest because this side was too blown out.

Farther east of Haleiwa the big wave surfers were out.

Right before noon, one of them didn't surface.

a full on search was going on in the water and

the air.

they were out again at day break searching again.

As of now, they still haven't found him.

He was someone that I didn't know personally, but had seen around.

It's a sad fact that something so awe-inspiring can also be so dangerous.

Even as I write this, I can still hear the helicopters.

And So It Begins...

the 2013 Triple Crown surf contest season.

The HIC Pro is a pre-qualifier for the other three BIG contest.

Haleiwa, Sunset and Pipe

let the games begin

and all that goes with it.

Flat...

summer on the North Shore...

flat, flat, flat

and that's ok.

I love how the sky and the ocean blend on the horizon...

not a wave, bump or swell in sight.

A Wave Discussion...

Greyson and Poppa watching surf videos...

keeping it in the family.

When Too Much Rain Is Fun...

There has been a lot of rain on Oahu, especially up by

Sunset, Waimea.  I came across Waimea Park flooded... by all the rain.

when I came around the bend I saw guys on the beach and had an idea what they

were doing.

You can see the river water blocked on the right in this photo.

There are guys digging a trench to let the water out...

random guys coming with shovels,

when I came back about an hour later, I could see that the crowd had grown

and caught a quick look...

 I found a short video that shows why they were doing it.

it's short-lived but looks like fun

I just wonder about all the dirty, brown water, yuck!