Surfing, A Sad Fact...

it can be very dangerous.

Yesterday we had the first really BIG swell come through.  

They didn't run the contest because this side was too blown out.

Farther east of Haleiwa the big wave surfers were out.

Right before noon, one of them didn't surface.

a full on search was going on in the water and

the air.

they were out again at day break searching again.

As of now, they still haven't found him.

He was someone that I didn't know personally, but had seen around.

It's a sad fact that something so awe-inspiring can also be so dangerous.

Even as I write this, I can still hear the helicopters.

And So It Begins...

the 2013 Triple Crown surf contest season.

The HIC Pro is a pre-qualifier for the other three BIG contest.

Haleiwa, Sunset and Pipe

let the games begin

and all that goes with it.

Heed The Warnings...

there's been a big swell the last week and another coming (it's building now).

These signs are posted on all the beaches.

There was an article in the paper the other day that said that lifeguards had rescued

150+ people over a few day period.

these are experienced surfer, these are tourist and locals for don't 

heed the warnings.

I was coming around Waimea curve and there was a tourist family with young

children, they had parked at 3 tables and were walking towards Waimea

with their  boogie boards in hand.  I'm sure they thought they could go in the water.

There's a reason the caution tape is up, to keep people off the beaches...a surge

can come up and sweep you into the water.  There are stories all the 

time on the news about that happening.  

There are times when it's so big at places like Sunset, above, that there aren't even any

surfers aren't out.  As I was sitting there watching, sure enough, some guys went under the 

tape and started down to the water...the lifeguards went down on the cycle and got them to 

come back up.  Right afterwards, a wave came up almost to the palm tree in the picture.

Freight Train...

got awakened in the middle of the night to the 

sounds of a freight train, caused by this...

huge surf!

We don't live that close to the beach, but can tell how big 

the surf is by the sound.

For it to have brought me out of my dreams...it must be huge.

Will have to see once the sun comes up.

The Good Things...

There are so many events going on around the North Shore during

the Triple Crown.  There have been quite a few that are benefits like "Surf Night"

at Sunset Elementary.  I read about one and hubby and I thought we'd go

by and see if we could find a friend of ours.  This event was at the "Clark Little Gallery"

in Haleiwa.  

This was a showing at the gallery of not only Clark's photos, but also

mounted photos taken with a GoPro Hero by this guy...

Couldn't even get close to see the photos (I stood on some stairs to get this).

This exhibit and sale is to benefit a super organization, Waves for Water, http://www.wavesforwater.org

We didn't get to see our friend, but did talk to Kalani who remembered me from San

Clemente (friends with her parents) and when we all danced hula at the same

halau.  So it was nice to get caught up with her.  It was crazy (really crazy) there

and we didn't stay long.

It's nice to see that surfing/surfers are getting the mahalo they deserve for caring

about not only the environment but others.

The Eddie...

Yesterday was the opening ceremony for "The Eddie"

the big wave contest that's held at Waimea.  They have an 

opening ceremony every year, but there is certain criteria that 

has to be met for it to be held.  The biggest thing is that Waimea has to be

breaking at 20+ feet for so many hours.

There are only 28 invitees every year and members of the Aikau

family.  It's a big deal to say the least.  The last time it was held, Greg Long

from San Clemente was the winner.  That was two years ago.

There was one day last year when they thought it might go, but the swell

dropped and they couldn't run it.

Even though it's sort of a hassle with all the traffic, etc, that goes with

running it, I hope they get a chance.

It really was something to see and we'll never forget it.

(Glaser photos)

And So It Begins...

the 2012 Winter contest season 

on the North Shore.

HIC Pro @ Sunset Beach

it's on hold right now because there aren't any waves.

Let the games begin!

The Sleeping Giant...

has awakened.  

Waimea Bay, October 9, 2012

(Vince Cavataio photos).

Yes, the roaring freight train named "BIG SURF" could be heard all night at our house.

This is so dangerous, this is what the lifeguards are trying to keep

people from doing...being swept out by the back wash. Can I just say crazy!

a couple of blurry iphone photos as we came around Waimea curve.

Welcome to Big Surf Season on the
North Shore.

Honolulu Surf Film Festival

We've gone to the Surf Film Festival a few times.  It's really good because of the wide

variety of films that are shown.

This year there were two films of interest to us...

"Come Hell Or High Water"

This is a great film about bodysurfing.

Most of it takes place here in Hawaii with Mark Cunningham and Mike Stewart, but

there is footage of the Wedge in Newport and some guy bodysurfing in a Montana river.

It was directed by Keith Malloy, one of the Malloy brothers that used to

stay at our house in SC.

The second film (these were shown together) was a film about a 

true waterman here in Hawaii, Nappy Napoleon.  This film is about 

him leading a  group of 5 paddlers in one-man outriggers as

they paddle all 9 of the Hawaiian channels between the islands in

six days.

Hubby has followed the career of this great man, even meeting him once.

Since Hubby has a one-man, he wanted to see this film.  

Another great little film.  

The festival is held at the Academy of Arts, Doris Duke Theater.

It's a great little theater and is so mellow, we love seeing films there.

This year the final film is "Going Surfin' " a film from 1973 (we saw the original), but

a great classic surf film.  

It's June 1st...

and there are waves!!!!

Not wind waves but a real swell

I was out really early taking some pictures and came upon the crowds...

There were some heavy trade showers but that didn't keep 

people away.

All of these pictures I took before 7 am.